Species Profile: Bearded Dragons or Central Bearded Dragons (scientific name Pogona Vitticeps) naturally inhabits a wide range of habitats in Australia. They are 1 of 8 dragon species in the country. Their preferred environmental areas are labeled as scrublands and woodlands, but they have been spotted in very urban areas as well. This lizard is well known for its versatility to adapt to change and take advantage of any opportunities it comes across. They can see in a wide range and spectrum of colors which help them identify "safe" foods to eat. They mature at 1-1.5 years old and average 15"-23" in length. In good captive conditions they can have a life span of 10 years or more.
Diet: Bearded Dragons just like humans are omnivorous and require protein(bugs) and plant material to thrive. In nature they will eat any bug that wonders into their path and grace on local plants leaves, flowers and fruit. In captive conditions they should only be fed "feeder" insects that were raised for the purpose of being fed to other animals. Many bugs in your backyard could be toxic or have pesticides on/in them. We have provided a very detailed list of all greens, fruits, vegetables & insects that make up a balanced diet for them on our "Nutritional Contents" page.
Water: In nature Bearded Dragons like many reptiles have evolved to conserve water by converting urine into dry urate which they pass with their feces. Australia experiences a wet and dry season so this adaptation helps them through dry times. Dragons are well known for pooping in any water source they come across. That is why we do not provide water bowls in our enclosures. Healthy dragons get most of their water needs met by a daily diet of fresh greens/veggies and bugs. Additionally we bath all of our adults weekly and babies twice a week. Not only does that keep them hydrated, but aids their skin during shedding.
Lighting: In nature Bearded Dragons have a full spectrum of UVA/UVB exposure from sunlight which helps them grow and develop correctly. In captivity we do our best to mimic that heat and light with correct temperatures and bulbs. Dragons require UVB lighting of 10% or higher as well as a heat source. Temperatures should be as follows(cool side 80 degrees F, warm side 90 degrees F and basking/hot spot should be 100-105 degrees F). We recommend for the UVB bulbs you read the manufactures recommendations for how far the UVB rays extend past the bulb. Most 10.0 rated UVB bulbs have a range of about 12" on average. The lower rated the bulb(5.0 or 8.0) the closer the dragon needs to be before receiving the beneficial UVB rays from the light. Keep in mind as well that ALL UVB bulbs wear out within a year or so depending on rating. The bulb will continue to look the same, but will no longer be providing your dragon with the UV in needs.
Supplements: We offer Calcium with D3 powder for all of our indoor bearded dragons at each bug/greens feeding. Bearded dragons bodies use the calcium they consume through bugs and healthy greens and the UVB/UVA lighting in their enclosures to produce vitamin D3 which aids in healthy bone development. We also offer a multivitamin powder once a week on bugs/greens to insure all of their other nutritional needs are met. Captive conditions limit what they can consume so making sure your dragon has a balanced diet and proper supplements is very important!
Enclosures: Here at CalicoDragons we keep all our dragons in custom built cages. Our cages vary in 3 different sizes . We work with many different Bearded Dragon Species so our standard is set by size not age. Hatchlings all start in 60qt bins. Dragons 6"-10" long are kept in our 2ft x 2ft cages. Dragons 10" plus inches long are kept in our 4ft x 2ft x 2ft cages.
Substrate: Substrate in cages is a highly option based topic. We feel for the safety of our hatchlings and juvenile sized dragons we do not use any substrate and simply keep them on paper towels. As dragons get older and their ability to accurately grab bugs and not surroundings improves substrate can be added. Bio-active enclosures are wonderful just keep in mind they can be expensive to set-up and maintain. Sand, certain mulches and reptile carpet can all be used. Sand needs to be completely changed every 1-2 months to avoid fecal matter from building up on their cages. Mulch can be washed and baked to kill any parasites. Most brands of reptile carpet can be washed in hot water and soap to stay clean.
Landscaping/Cage Accessories: This topic is also highly option based. We feel keeping our cages as free and open as possible so our dragons have space to roam their enclosures is best. We provide a bowl for fresh greens and access to vertical and horizontal basking areas. Keep in mind when purchasing a baby or new dragon they all go through a normal adjustment period once in their new cages at your home. The more cluttered and full their new cages are the longer that adjustment period will be. Lastly if you are feeding them bugs in their cages the bugs will have more spaces to hide if their cage is full of many things. Thus the bugs are not getting eaten and also the bugs could and have been known to nibble on your dragons as they sleep.
Cleaning Products: We use F10 SC Veterinary Disinfectant which is a wonderful disinfecting product that you can purchase online. It comes as a concentrate which you dilute with water. It is the safest/strongest product we have found available. It kills virus, bacteria and fungi. F10 has no adverse effects on humans,animals or non-living objects. It does not need to be rinsed off because it stays active providing on-going residual effects even after it dries.This product also has no harmful fumes or unpleasant odor.
